BLOCK SUPPORTS
CALL 920-207-9180
BLOCK SUPPORT
NO MORE CRACKED BLOCKS
AROUND THE BEARING
POCKET
WKA legal for Limited Modifieds.
A must for open motors.
The material around the bearing
pocket is about 1/10" thick.
The BLOCK SUPPORT strengthens
this area tremendously.
No welding is required. Anyone can
install it. It's Simple.
The support is held in place by
30,000 psi epoxie and two screws.
NO MORE CRACKED BLOCKS
AROUND THE BEARING
WKA legal for Limited Modifieds.
A must for open motors.
The material around the bearing
pocket is about 1/10" thick.
The BLOCK SUPPORT strengthens
this area tremendously.
No welding is required. Anyone can
install it. It's Simple.
The support is held in place by
30,000 psi epoxie and two screws.
Fits the Animal / WF and the model 15 / Briggs 300 w / 3" bore
with the stock stroke crank. $29.95
Epoxie sold separately
with the stock stroke crank. $29.95
Epoxie sold separately
Block support plates for Animals WF's 249, 300, & 305 / 350
Ideal for stroker cranks since it shims out the blower housing for
cooling fan clearance.
Ideal for stroker cranks since it shims out the blower housing for
cooling fan clearance.
Install an adjustable PVL Ignition coil and flywheel on your 305 / 350 Big
Block
Bearing pocket support plate (Painted yellow so you can see it) allows you
to install the Heavy Duty Animal blower housing and third bearing kit. You
can either weld the support plate on or use high strength epoxie and small
bolts.
Some simple machine work required.
It can be used with the stock parts also.
Block
Bearing pocket support plate (Painted yellow so you can see it) allows you
to install the Heavy Duty Animal blower housing and third bearing kit. You
can either weld the support plate on or use high strength epoxie and small
bolts.
Some simple machine work required.
It can be used with the stock parts also.
New Improved Girdle Kit $99.95
The wider top plate now has the tab to attach to the new style blower housing on one
side and the chain guard plus on the other side to provide additional support.
The wider top plate now has the tab to attach to the new style blower housing on one
side and the chain guard plus on the other side to provide additional support.
GIRDLE KIT
Modified motors can benefit from the stability that the girdle kit provides. The
girdle kit provides the extra support to keep the cylinder and head from
coming off.
The angle brace that is attached under the top two head bolts is made from 1/4
steel.
It's bolted to the top engine plate (control cover)
Notice the flange with the fuel pump mounted to it, That puts the fuel pump
CONVENIENTLY right next to the pulse fitting on the intake manifold.
Modified motors can benefit from the stability that the girdle kit provides. The
girdle kit provides the extra support to keep the cylinder and head from
coming off.
The angle brace that is attached under the top two head bolts is made from 1/4
steel.
It's bolted to the top engine plate (control cover)
Notice the flange with the fuel pump mounted to it, That puts the fuel pump
CONVENIENTLY right next to the pulse fitting on the intake manifold.
The bottom
bracket also has
tabs on the sides
to mount exhaust
braces to
bracket also has
tabs on the sides
to mount exhaust
braces to
CHAIN GUARD PLUSS $44.95
Billet side covers are nice but the Chain Guard Plus is a better alternative.
Billet side covers are not legal in stock classes.
There's nothing wrong with the stock side cover. I have never seen one break
After running your engine put it on a good surface plate and see what you find.
You might be surprised how much the bottom of the block has twisted. This will be
indicated by how much it rocks back and forth, side-to-side or corner-to-corner.
Just imagine what's going on when you apply the engine torque while racing.
The bottom of the block is twisting all over the place.
Billet side covers or thick plates on the bottom of the engine do absolutely nothing to
prevent this. They do look nice though.
The bolt mounting pad for the engine is about 3/4" thick aluminum (looks good) but
the material between the mounting pads (in the crankcase) is about 1/10" thick.
The torque of the Animal / WF engine wants to climb up the chain and also twist the
engine to the left.
The amount of material in the bottom of the block doesn't offer much strength to
keep this twisting from happening.
Some guys put a 1" plate between the engine and the motor mount. That may help
reduce the twisting transferred from the chassis but it does nothing to prevent the
engine torque from twisting the block.
Some guys will machine the bottom of the block to get it straight.
That works for a short time (until it twists again)
Be careful machining the bottom of the block. Since the drain plug has pipe threads
it acts like a wedge as you turn it into the block.
I have seen too many blocks crack from over tightening the drain plug.
Machining the bottom of the block may actually promote cracking by weakening the
area below the drain plug.
Billet side covers are not legal in stock classes.
There's nothing wrong with the stock side cover. I have never seen one break
After running your engine put it on a good surface plate and see what you find.
You might be surprised how much the bottom of the block has twisted. This will be
indicated by how much it rocks back and forth, side-to-side or corner-to-corner.
Just imagine what's going on when you apply the engine torque while racing.
The bottom of the block is twisting all over the place.
Billet side covers or thick plates on the bottom of the engine do absolutely nothing to
prevent this. They do look nice though.
The bolt mounting pad for the engine is about 3/4" thick aluminum (looks good) but
the material between the mounting pads (in the crankcase) is about 1/10" thick.
The torque of the Animal / WF engine wants to climb up the chain and also twist the
engine to the left.
The amount of material in the bottom of the block doesn't offer much strength to
keep this twisting from happening.
Some guys put a 1" plate between the engine and the motor mount. That may help
reduce the twisting transferred from the chassis but it does nothing to prevent the
engine torque from twisting the block.
Some guys will machine the bottom of the block to get it straight.
That works for a short time (until it twists again)
Be careful machining the bottom of the block. Since the drain plug has pipe threads
it acts like a wedge as you turn it into the block.
I have seen too many blocks crack from over tightening the drain plug.
Machining the bottom of the block may actually promote cracking by weakening the
area below the drain plug.
THIRD BEARING
$99.95
$99.95
ALL BLOCK
SUPPORTS
$29.95
SUPPORTS
$29.95
1" thick aluminum spacer plate. Helps prevent block
twisting as the frame flexes
Can also be used a kid kart adaptor plate for the
Briggs kit kart motor
$49.95
twisting as the frame flexes
Can also be used a kid kart adaptor plate for the
Briggs kit kart motor
$49.95